Rio in the 19th century was a melting pot of cultures. There was the arrival of the Portuguese court, the influence of African and indigenous cultures as well as the growing merchant class in the city. All of these influences fed heavily into what we today call Carioca cuisine, and the city has managed to preserve some of the old vestiges of this important époque. These establishments, some of which are well over a hundred years old, are well maintained and are all found in the centre of Rio, where the city started. Getting to know the oldest locales in Rio is akin to taking a step back in time, given the architecture, décor and of course traditional recipes. This list could even have been more indulgent, but unfortunately many establishments no longer offer the same cuisine of yesteryear. The Portuguese proverb goes “antiguidade é posto” which loosely translates as “respect your elders” and this is what we aim to do with this list.
The original name and address of the oldest still-functioning restaurant in Rio endures to this day. Dating back to 1884, this Portuguese establishment specialises in seafood. The portions are considerable and so too are the prices. But for those dining alone or in search of more wallet-friendly prices, take a seat at an outdoor table where the cheaper “Executivo” dishes are served. The décor is simple yet charming; a façade covered with bright blue and white tiles in typical traditional Lusitanian style.
From the front, a traditional bar and a few outdoor tables, but a small door opens up to the restaurants huge dining room. Founded in Catete in 1874, Café Lamas was the meeting point for intellectuals, politicians and artists of the day. Relocating to Flamengo in 1976, nowadays it is the go to spot for night-owls on the hunt for some early-morning sustenance as the bar is open until 3am on weekends. The menu is extensive and, yes, pricey too. Punters usually go for the filet mignon dishes that come with hearty accompaniments of broccoli rice and Portuguese potatoes.
At the centre of Lapa’s late night hubbub it is difficult to pass by this restaurant without seeing its tables busy with nocturnal diners. This is another restaurant that stays open late but serves, perhaps, as a bit more of a sophisticated post night out. Nova Capela is great for a chopp (Brazilian term for draught beer) or sticking with the 5-star quality cod fishcakes they do here is also not a bad idea. If you’re after a proper meal, our top pick is their cabrito assado (roasted lamb), a crispy exterior but deliciously tender on the inside, served with broccoli rice and toasted garlic chips. For a lighter option, go for the trout. Really homely and traditional vibes here.
The warehouse-style of this establishment is a clue to Paladino’s age, with its antique glass cabinets, stocked with dozens of bottles of spirits and wives. The locale is famous for, among other things, its delicious omelettes that come filled with either cod, sardines or shrimp. But arguably its best eats are its French baguette sandwiches that come with cold cuts like salami, mortadella ham and copa ham, which can also be bought by the kilo at the counter. The house’s Brahma chopp is also very popular around here, in fact you will see it sitting on 90% of the tables there.
Address
: Rua Uruguiana, 226, Centro
Phone
: +55 (21) 2263-2094
Schedule:
Sun 07:00 às 20:30, Mon 07:00 às 20:30, Tue 07:00 às 20:30, Wed 07:00 às 20:30, Thu 07:00 às 20:30, Fri 07:00 às 20:30, Sat 08:00 às 12:00
Bar do Gomes, as it is known among the younger crowd, is one of the most popular spots in Santa Teresa, as also was the case in older days. Beers are always ice-cold and the ginger-infused cachaça is absolutely sensational. That’s without mentioning the scrumptiousappetisers available at the bar, the charming environment that evokes a trip back to 1919when the bar was first opened. The bar occupies the corner of the street and for the best vibes grab one of the standing tables outside for a drink with friends. The place to start a night out in Santa.
