Just a few years ago recommending bars in Rio’s favelas would have been something unthinkable. Patrons would only have been the community’s own residents. However, the pacification of some of these communities has meant Cariocas have lost their fear to head on up Rio’s hills in search of these great bars. Chapéu Mangueira, Morro dos Prazeres, Santo Cristo and even Complexo do Alemão have genuine gastronomic treasures in store from talented cooks. Get on some comfortable footwear, get your breath and head up in search of these 5 best favela bars in Rio.
Cheap ice cold beer and pagode (think slowed-down samba) make up the backdrop of the majority of bars in Rio’s communities. But not at this bar, founded in 2013 right in the middle of Complexo do Alemão. In contrast to its peers, here you’ll find an extensive menu with 300 labels of both national and imported beers. Anyone visiting has to try the beer that bears the name of the community, a lager created exclusively for this bar (RS18 for 600ml). It makes a perfect companion for their bolinhos de feijoada , rabada or arroz (feijoada, oxtail or rice balls, R$6 each).
This one may test your fitness, at the end of the day there are 250 steps to climb after making up the ascent up Ladeira Ary Barroso – this part can be done by taxi or mototaxi. But believe us, the view t over the Leme and Copacabana coast will simply take the little breath you have left away. And against this incredible backdrop you can savour the creations of Rubens “o Pituca” Zerbinato. Creative appetisers such as the Feijoada Harumaki (R$25 for a portion of 6) or well-made traditional favourites like the Bobó de Camaraão (delicious shrimp stew made with cassava purée, coconut milk and palm oil, R$75). The chef, who has worked at Le Pré Catelan and Bar do Lado to name a few is now trying his hand as a barman. Make sure you try the caipichop de maçã verde, a delicious cocktail made with cachaça and green apple (R$24).
Another bar where getting there requires good cardio. This time it’s a good walk through the winding alleyways that make up the pacified Morro do Prazeres, Santa Teresa. But as you get close the intoxicating smells of the smoky Brazilian BBQ will have your mouth watering. And your trip will become even more worth it with picture-postcard views over the city, featuring Sugarloaf and Christ the Redeemer. Get comfortable and order the carro-chefe, a variety platter made by the Santana family (R$150). This dish which should comfortably serve up to 5 people comes with grilled chicken, pork ribs, sun-dried beef, Brazilian sausage and coalho cheese as well as rice, beans, farofa and feijão tropeiro (beans with cassava flour, crackling, sausage, eggs, garlic and onions). Antarctica Original beer makes the perfect accompaniment (R$10 for 600ml).
On arriving it’s almost impossible not to be taken in by Omar Monteiro’s hospitality which is ever-present at the bar that carries his name. On this rooftop veranda, as well as being able to enjoy the great food and drink on offer, you can also appreciate the view of the city’s port district. As soon as you get seated, you first order has to be the Omaracujá, a delicious fruit punch with cachaça (R$5). If you prefer something a bit more malty, there’s Heineken, Antartica Original, Bohemia, Serramalte and Amstel, ice-cold and ready (R$11 for 600ml). See to your hunger with the house’s special bolinhos: Brazilian sausage with scarlet eggplant, pumpkin with dried beef, feijoada or cassava with shrimp (R$19 for 6 pieces). On Saturdays they serve moqueca (a fish stew cooked in coconut milk) for two for just R$58.
“Ô, meu Rei!” or “Oh, my King!” is the greeting given by David Bispo to all of those at the tables of his bar at the top of Chapéu Mangueira. An ex-fisherman, it’s no surprise therefore that the majority of his dishes come from the sea. And that’s the case with his seafood feijoada, made with white beans, octopus, squid, shrimp, fish and mussels (R$39.90). But it is also worth the visit for his Estrela de David or Star of David, a portion of spare ribs that comes with a delicious pineapple, mint and pepper jam (R$29.90). To drink, the Antarctica Original is always well chilled (R$10.50 for 600ml) or there is the famous caipirinhas (R$16). The tangerine and ginger version is amazing, but fans of sweet cocktails should also try their caipimaltine made with cachaça and Ovaltine.
